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Thank you gentlemen, thank you.


All tips and critic is welcome. Thats how we learn right Jerry?

Juan.....those dang transitions never match in bamboo unless its natural. I have this notion that all transitions are subbed out to another company that makes them exclusively, even in China. Thats why they never really match. Whatcha think?

I just thought people would like to know there is a decent bamboo product out there these days. I see so much junk. So if you know someone thats interested in bamboo direct them to this product. This one can be fastened, floated or glued down.

I did a wood job, not bamboo, where they purposely had contrasting transitions and just the stairnose. I have to admit I was skeptical, but it turned out really sweet.

I have done only 5 bamboo jobs so far. 1 Hawa, 3 Plyboo, and my first was a LL, Garden Mountain??? or something like that... It was a nightmare compared to the rest. All gluedown

Nothing really there to critique. Why would you post pictures of ammo.

I can see purposefully contrasted stairnose I guess. Hopefully they would tell the enduser that.

Ammo? People do things a lot different. It isn't necessarly bad or better sometimes. Also pictures can be decieving. I don't take critic's too personal these days. If the homeowner loves it.....

I also got a circa 1996 4.5 in Celestron -- Newtonian -- telescope in mint condition as a tip of sorts from the homeowner. The very day of the lunar eclipse. She had purchased a new one and after chatting about the upcoming event and how my boys love astronomy she handed it to me. I was shocked. The thing is awesome.

I picked up on something awhile back. Looking thru some photos I could see where my saw guard was leaving whitish scuff marks on the brick/stone face.

Now I tape over the material before I cut. That helped me alot. Then I figured out if I use a commercial grade double face tape first, with some masking tape applied over it, that helps to keep small pieces of rock/mortar in place, so I can glue them back in if needed.

Be careful with that dbl faced tape, because it can be hell to remove on some surfaces.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ~ Jerome ~,

I'll keep that in mind, thanks.

BTW those whitish marks in my pictures are dust your seeing. It came off after using a dmap rang. The color of those bricks go all the way thru them.

... which is why I did not try to infer they were scuff marks I saw. Carry on partner, you do very good work.

Have you ever thought about scribing a header strip where it meets tile for a flush transition? How 'bout creating a custom tapered edge to the lower floors? It looks so much better than those speed bump Ts.

Well yes but then satillio is way high for many hardwood floors for a flush transition. I do like header strips but on floaters it seems a waste of time.

I beg to differ on the height issue. I've done it on a floater many times. I use grout caulk to keep it in place. A little unconventional but a man-spec rebel like you knows where I'm coming from.

I can picture it in my minds eye but a real photo would be invaluable.

Thanks

Consider cutting a plank to fit on top of the wood floor scribed against the tile when you have to finish to a higher surface. Or ramp up to it.

This pic is of a floater, actually a 3/8" X 3" engineered that the man says shouldn't be floated butted against tile using a narrow header and grout caulk.

Like an endcap of sorts? That looks great!

I've thought of floating out some areas but for a few mear seconds. Especially in a hallway with multiple doorways. You would have to float out quite a few feet back and through multiple doorways, no?