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Testing, slab totally resurfaced.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: The Bullitt,

Calculating

Was there something wrong on that form? No matter.

Ph test

Prep to manufacures specs

Taylor MS Plus moisture inhibitor method. Took two gallons more than estimated with specified trowel, total of 5 gallons for 265 sf.

This adhesive is like pushing a cement truck. But it is easier on top of the seal coat when adhering the wood.

Da vood....err grass. Job was previously installed by a GC who got some bad info from a green building products company here. They were told to glue foil backed rolled cork onto the slab with moisture cure polyurethane....that didn't stick well, then adhere stranded bamboo with Taylor 2071. He use the wrong notched trowel and it cupped like a mother.

I really do not like gluing solid anything to concrete, it's a royal pain. Strap, wait, glue....strap, wait...glue.

This is the first time I used the Taylor MS Plus, I don't really like it at all. It starts to clump up in the bucket, even sealed it up after dumping out glue for each shot. Plus, what they do not tell you about the inhibitor method is your going to use 50 percent more adhesive on top of that first layer due to the ridges left in the adhesive. Unlike the Bostik's MVP that slumps flat.

Anyway...I think ya'll get the picture.

Next job is going to be Chemrex CX-1000, I love that stuff.

BTW You need to roll the heck outa this. Maybe it was the vood but it didn't like to stick all that much. I give this adhesive a two thumbs down.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: The Bullitt,

That is why I use a special notch trowel with the Taylor 2071, I feel the ridges are not tall enough to do any good.

I notch an old vinyl or carpet trowel, with a diamond blade, making a 1/8 U groove 1/4-5/16 deep and 1/4 spacing. It works very well

Cutting steel with a diamond blade seems to be a unique approach. Do you find it to be any better/faster than say the standard metal cutting discs by Norton? What are they, Zirconium I believe?

Nice straps, who makes those?

quote:

I really do not like gluing solid anything to concrete, it's a royal pain. Strap, wait, glue....strap, wait...glue.

I really never wait. Why would you wait?

That is why I use blue tape. That way I don't have to wait to get another bite.


I have used a disc, but the diamond blade is usually always mounted on my angle grinder. Cuts faster then a disc, too. Learned that cutting nails, when rebuilding my parents greenhouse.

quote:

Originally posted by ĶĦĄØŞ:
Nice straps, who makes those?

quote:

I really do not like gluing solid anything to concrete, it's a royal pain. Strap, wait, glue....strap, wait...glue.

I really never wait. Why would you wait?

Those straps are from Crain, it's all I can find down here. Solid flooring seems to have more tweaked planks. Pricey little buggers though.

Sometimes when there are a couple of gaps I wait about ten minutes or so till the glue starts to grab. But while that is happening I am racking out another five to seven rows depending in the width of the flooring and clean my trowel off.

Perry, I don't understand why you would want to risk changing the trowel size and getting to much adhesive on the floor especially if your getting 100% coverage. Too much adhesive starts to get into the T&G. Plus it all gets squished down when you roll it anyway.

I've started using tape mainly at the end where I am working on the floor or at the start. Depends on the wood.
If you see in one picture I have two rows of wood staggard behind the straps, it pulls the wood together more evenly across the length.

No risk. I let it flash and I have done it enough to know. I use Taylor 2071 almost exclusively on engineered. Solid and I personally wouldn't use Taylor(but that is just me I don't like to "risk it")

It is as if the inside of the trowel ridges burst when I place a board. That 2071 is more like a pressure sensitive adhesive. Or they wouldn't want you to wait 2 hours to roll it.

quote:

Originally posted by Bullitt:
Sometimes when there are a couple of gaps I wait about ten minutes or so till the glue starts to grab. But while that is happening I am racking out another five to seven rows depending in the width of the flooring and clean my trowel off.

That's not waiting then is it?

I do it a bit differently where I have a minimum of two straps per plank and squeeze just about every row. I use end clamps on the sides and ends as well. I very rarely use tape.

I look at trowel specs as minimum recommendations. Rarely is a floor flat enough to use the shallow trowels. I have a large assortment so no need to cut any.

quote:

I look at trowel specs as minimum recommendations

Thats an interesting theory.

I don't know if I'd call it a theory, more real world observation or experience.

They change the trowel specs according to the thickness of the wood. They usually want more adhesive for thicker wood. Which could mean thicker wood is stiffer and less likely to conform to minor subfloor irregularities and/or more wood moves more. All the thicknesses have the same bottom surface area.

Trowel specs are for lab tested ideal conditions. They don't take the subfloor, trowel condition, or even user tendencies into account.

quote:

Trowel specs are for lab tested ideal conditions. They don't take the subfloor, trowel condition, or even user tendencies into account.

I'll have to agree with that.

So I should just consider using a large percentage of adhesive than the man suggests along with a larger trowel notch size becase I did not prep it to specs?

Theres a new adhesive out that does not want you to roll. They want that ridge to be decernable if need be. Hows that effect your observations?

Lets be realistic here. I don't care how fantastic of a floor prep guy you are, there are a good percentage of slabs where you won't be able to get the entire slab flat to within an eighth in six unless you go slc. At an eighth your adhesive is barely touching your floor. If you add or subtract material in one spot to flatten a concentrated area, you affect everything around it. You could be doing more harm than good.

I honestly don't care what they want and if my floor stays flat without hollow spots than I never have to worry about it. Then again according to Mickey Moore- "The occasional hollow sounding area is considered “OK” as long as the performance of the flooring is not affected."

That explains my take on it too.

It took me a while to click, that they have more then one notch recommendation, on the side of the bucket, yet it is all the same adhesive in the bucket.

As long as I don't get ooze between the joints, I'm good to go.