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<Kevin>
Posted
Floorman:
Very informative post. Thanks for posting that up for me! What is screed patching and SLC?

I just had the third person, of the 3 names given to me, come out today to look at the job. He seemed to be more legitimate than the others so far, but still not 100%, and his price was at the upper end of the spectrum IMO. He said that he wanted to prep the floor (in reference to making it flat) with thinset. He would apply it and then use a level to make the floor flat all the way across. He would let this dry completely for a few days. Then he would come back and lay the tiles on that. He said that the thinset mortar is actually stronger/tougher than the self-leveling concrete that other people recommend using to level. Dont know if this is the way to go or not? He is also the only person so far to guarentee his work for more than a year. He offered 2 years...anything at all goes wrong, even a cracked slab, and he will repair.

I dont know the rules on here, but am I able to ask where the pricing should be ballpark on a job like mine? I have a concrete slab covered in vinyl. Vinyl needs to come up, floor flattened, and tile layed diagonally. There are three areas that need attention for flatness. Two low spots up to 3/8" and about 5ft x 3ft in size, and one high spot about the same 3/8" which is about 2ft x 3ft. I am laying 18x18 or 20x20 tile with hopefully 1/8" grout for nice standard tile, or maybe even 1/16" if I find rectified? What should a job like this cost? I am getting quotes for like $3500-$3700 labor and prep. That does not include the tile itself. This is for 325sq/ft. Just curious what you guys would charge round-a-bout for this job?? Thanks!

Hardknees:
That sounds like a unique way to check for levelness...lol...sounds like it might just work Smiler
 
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This has turned out to be a fun thread Kevin, thanks for coming.

Screed patching is using a londg level of sorts to fill in the low spots. You pour out the patch and pull it across the low spots thus leveling it out.

SLC is a self leveling compound that you just pour out on the floor after using the required primer of course. Then after it levels itself out you may if needed push it around with a trowel or screed to "flatten it" to the desired plane. I usually use some ardex sd-f to feather out the rough edges as slc does not feather out because of its larger grit content.

But thats just the way I do it.

I would hire the last guy if it were me. Pricing is very different around the country and I have also leveled the floor using thinset when in a pinch. Works good and sounds like he knows his stuff.



 
Posts: 11334 | Registered: July 06, 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by hardknees:
This has turned out to be a fun thread Kevin, thanks for coming.

Screed patching is using a londg level of sorts to fill in the low spots. You pour out the patch and pull it across the low spots thus leveling it out.

SLC is a self leveling compound that you just pour out on the floor after using the required primer of course. Then after it levels itself out you may if needed push it around with a trowel or screed to "flatten it" to the desired plane. I usually use some ardex sd-f to feather out the rough edges as slc does not feather out because of its larger grit content.

But thats just the way I do it.

I would hire the last guy if it were me. Pricing "fluc-tuats" around the country and I have also leveled the floor using thinset when in a pinch. Works good and sounds like he knows his stuff.



 
Posts: 11334 | Registered: July 06, 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<tileman>
Posted
I have to disagree. Leveling with thinset and letting it dry for a few days is BS. In a pinch, maybe, but as a leveler. No way. Pour the entire floor with SLC, you're in for about a grand but you'll have a very flat surface for tile and still be in the $3500 range for the project.

Pick the tile take it home and lay it out dry and see what can be done with the product. Maybe tight joints can be accomplished. make sure to budget for an epoxy or epoxy modified grout. You won't regret it.
 
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Whats the difference if you float the floor out 2 inches thick to level a floor as you go or float it out and come back?

Answer.... nothing.

What if you dry pack the floor before hand and then come back a couple days later?

Answer....same thing as using thinset. Only the tile Gods just feel uncomfortable about it and the other powers that be want you to spend more money buying expensive sundry's.

I quoted myself. Big Grin



 
Posts: 11334 | Registered: July 06, 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Kevin>
Posted
Floorman:
I forgot to ask based on your post, are Crossville and Florida Tile selling only rectified tiles, or are there only certain styles in their lines that are rectified. I was looking at the Crossville Color Blox "I See the Moon", but didnt think it was rectified.

hardknees:
Thanks for explaining those processes a little more for me. It sounds like the last guy that came over would be screed patching, but is it not the same if you are using the thinset to do it?

tileman:
And posts like this are exactly why it is so hard for a consumer like me, that really doesnt know but from what he reads, what the actual right way to do it is. It is so hard with everbody out there having so many different opinions. At what point can I stop pulling my hair out....lol....

So, should the entire floor be done with SLC, or can thinset handle the job? That is the question Smiler
 
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<Kevin>
Posted
Oh, and on another note, do any of you guys lay Slate or Quartzite? I saw some beautiful Quartzite in one of the stores. The sales rep tried to tell me that the honed pieces could run 1/16" grout lines because they were as tight and precise as the rectified tiles??? Was she blowing smoke up my butt on this one?? Any disadvantages to Quartzite over porcelain? Any different methods of laying it? Thanks!
 
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Anyone ever added the same amount of water to thinset as you would slc?

It acts the same friggin way. Looks the same and tastes the same.

I swear someone did that once to save time and then said. "well I'll be a s-l-c" and it was born! Big Grin Razzer



 
Posts: 11334 | Registered: July 06, 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<tileman>
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Kevin:
Floorman:
I forgot to ask based on your post, are Crossville and Florida Tile selling only rectified tiles, or are there only certain styles in their lines that are rectified. I was looking at the Crossville Color Blox "I See the Moon", but didnt think it was rectified.

hardknees:
Thanks for explaining those processes a little more for me. It sounds like the last guy that came over would be screed patching, but is it not the same if you are using the thinset to do it?

tileman:
And posts like this are exactly why it is so hard for a consumer like me, that really doesnt know but from what he reads, what the actual right way to do it is. It is so hard with everbody out there having so many different opinions. At what point can I stop pulling my hair out....lol....

So, should the entire floor be done with SLC, or can thinset handle the job? That is the question Smiler
 
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<tileman>
Posted
My post got messed up...briefly, thinset mortars are designed to perform at a certain thickness and have limitations on how deep it can be applied. Make sure your installer is using a medium bed mortar designed to level and that the overall thickness isn't beyond what's recommended for the product.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Kevin:
Oh, and on another note, do any of you guys lay Slate or Quartzite? I saw some beautiful Quartzite in one of the stores. The sales rep tried to tell me that the honed pieces could run 1/16" grout lines because they were as tight and precise as the rectified tiles??? Was she blowing smoke up my butt on this one?? Any disadvantages to Quartzite over porcelain? Any different methods of laying it? Thanks!


After all that you going to change boats on us in midstream huh Kevin? Not a big deal though the quartzite looks cool. Its like laying marble, white stone specific thinset please.

The only difference between using slc and thinset is its psi besides the obvious time differential. I prefer slc myself. Its easy smeasy.

Who brooms it?



 
Posts: 11334 | Registered: July 06, 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Kevin>
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by hardknees:
After all that you going to change boats on us in midstream huh Kevin? Not a big deal though the quartzite looks cool. Its like laying marble, white stone specific thinset please.

The only difference between using slc and thinset is its psi besides the obvious time differential. I prefer slc myself. Its easy smeasy.

Who brooms it?


lol...no I'm not necessarily jumping boats, but just curious really. The very last place we stopped, had some of this stuff and it was extremely nice looking to me. There were two that I really liked. They were "Honed Ocean Green" and "Honed Ostrich Grey". They were quartzite. I was just curious as to how tight they can be layed, and if the process was any different. I just asked one of the guys that came out, and he said he wont touch natural stone products at all, only because it is not something he has done and is not comfortable with it. So I didnt know what the real differences were.
 
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<Kevin>
Posted
So it sounds as though, if done properly, you really could go either way on the leveling process. That makes it harder to know which of the guys to go with yet again...lol
 
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You have that scratch and scuff factor with polished stone to think about.



 
Posts: 11334 | Registered: July 06, 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Kevin,

SLC is selv leveling compound ... it is mixed very loose (liquid-like) and is poured .. it finds its own level if mixed and pumped in properly.

Screed pathing is like he states, but to do it, the installer would use a level to do a dry run to map out and mark area flatness (depressions and high spots), then grind the high spots if needed and fill the low spots with a aluminum screed or a a very straight 2"x4" to create the overall flatness required.

Thinset can be used but to me it is not a very "workable" product for prep. It doesnt fill and move like a good quality cement based floor patch. When mixed smooth enough to skim, it separates to easily. Also, thicker areas of thinset will crack out and dry unevenly as moisture leaves the product. It is not my choice for any major or deep preparation work, but for very small thin areas it is fine if that is all the isntaller has on hand. It will work fine once dried and touched up if it cracked, but it is jsut not my choice as a filler/prep product. There are too many other product that are much easier to work and work with that provide better coverage isntalled more easily.

Crosasville ceramics and florida tile both have certain lines which are rectified tile. They also have lines that arent rectified. There are also many other manufacturers of rectified tile.

Pricing is all over the place depending on the retailer, contractor, and geographic location, and of course their experience and the value they place on their craftsmanship. While there is certainly no guarantee that a high price guarantees craftsmanship, it does tend to separate the bottom feeding corner cutting ones that lack any real education/experience from the superb professionals that know what they are worth and demand top dollar for it.

As to who to go with, it does not matter if you use a SLC or someone who preps by hand screeding. Both end results are the same if done properly.
 
Posts: 165 | Registered: February 14, 2007Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Kevin>
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by floorman67:
Kevin,

SLC is selv leveling compound ... it is mixed very loose (liquid-like) and is poured .. it finds its own level if mixed and pumped in properly.

Screed pathing is like he states, but to do it, the installer would use a level to do a dry run to map out and mark area flatness (depressions and high spots), then grind the high spots if needed and fill the low spots with a aluminum screed or a a very straight 2"x4" to create the overall flatness required.

Thinset can be used but to me it is not a very "workable" product for prep. It doesnt fill and move like a good quality cement based floor patch. When mixed smooth enough to skim, it separates to easily. Also, thicker areas of thinset will crack out and dry unevenly as moisture leaves the product. It is not my choice for any major or deep preparation work, but for very small thin areas it is fine if that is all the isntaller has on hand. It will work fine once dried and touched up if it cracked, but it is jsut not my choice as a filler/prep product. There are too many other product that are much easier to work and work with that provide better coverage isntalled more easily.

Crosasville ceramics and florida tile both have certain lines which are rectified tile. They also have lines that arent rectified. There are also many other manufacturers of rectified tile.

Pricing is all over the place depending on the retailer, contractor, and geographic location, and of course their experience and the value they place on their craftsmanship. While there is certainly no guarantee that a high price guarantees craftsmanship, it does tend to separate the bottom feeding corner cutting ones that lack any real education/experience from the superb professionals that know what they are worth and demand top dollar for it.

As to who to go with, it does not matter if you use a SLC or someone who preps by hand screeding. Both end results are the same if done properly.


Thanks again for the info. Do you have any experience with laying quartzite tile? Any differences in the process? Any positives/negatives versus porcelain? Thanks!
 
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It is not wise to use a thinset to fill in low spots. I use Mapei Planipatch for that. That large a tile the concrete will need to be flat as you already know. A good tileman will be able to do this job. This is alot of work and not cheap.

Go in a local ProSource Floors and ask for a couple of independant "anal" installers for you to contact. While you are at the counter, let them show you their product offerings.
 
Posts: 786 | Location: VA | Registered: February 02, 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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They need to be "referred" to go to ProSource Jerry. Someone has to spend the referal feeRazzer Guess that's you.Big Grin
 
Posts: 2828 | Location: Tie me at the cross roads when I die...hang me in the wind till I get good and dry....... | Registered: September 02, 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Kevin>
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Jerry Thomas:
It is not wise to use a thinset to fill in low spots. I use Mapei Planipatch for that. That large a tile the concrete will need to be flat as you already know. A good tileman will be able to do this job. This is alot of work and not cheap.

Go in a local ProSource Floors and ask for a couple of independant "anal" installers for you to contact. While you are at the counter, let them show you their product offerings.


Thank you for the input! I see you are in VA. Would you have any interest in this project? Thanks!
 
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Our prosource here are flooring whores. They sell to anyone that walks through the door.

Hell, one time they tried to sell a customer behind my back.



 
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